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Keep on Green Truckin'

POSTED: January 16, 2012 2:12 p.m.
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Food critic reviews the Green Truck Pub in Savannah.

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In October 2010, I last reviewed Green Truck Pub on Habersham Street. Since then I've been in only a few times for a beer at the bar, and a handful of other times to eat, because I can't seem to get into this wildly successful neighborhood spot.

In many ways, it defies success. The menu, for example, has scarcely changed since opening, although more frequent specials pop up in a rotation. And, there is seemingly always a line at the door.

For you restaurateurs who hand-wring about guests waiting at the door, Green Truck reinforces my long-held belief that it's better to have a line at the door than empty seats. And you know what? Everyone apparently waits happily, for up to half an hour, for a spot at the table.

A commitment to regionally sourced, organic and healthy ingredients, a very dynamic craft beer list and an unrelenting devotion to quality have won and sustained support from the neighborhood.

On my recent visit, I met a friend for lunch. She had a Green Greek salad that was sporting huge chunks for Feta cheese, and enough green goodies to satisfy a warren of hungry rabbits. She happily munched her way to the bottom of the huge bowl - despite lamenting that it was "too much." Her delicate sensibilities were apparently overshadowed by the tasty bowl of greens.

I went for the root of all goodness: The original Green Truck Classic Burger. There's nothing sexy about this big burger on a soft and seductive roll, topped with a hearty slice of red onion, snipping fresh lettuce and ripe, rich tomato. Toss in a couple of house-cured pickles and a side of deliciously flavored and nicely textured vegan chili, and I'm one happy camper.

The Classic may be the foundation of the sandwich menu, but this simple burger sets the tone for other sandwiches that are fresh, made-to-order and satisfying. There are plenty of other sandwich and salad options on the menu, and a kid's menu that kids actually like. Vegetarians will find a happy home here.

Apps include an interesting selection of Georgia nuts (pecans and walnuts) seasoned with Rosemary, as well as a yummy pimento cheese plate served with those great pickles and crusty bread.

The only thing that would make Green Truck more attractive to me is a Fast Pass admission ticket.

2430 Habersham St./234-5885

 

 

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