The fragrance of freshly made “pastelitos.” The lyrics of the Queen of Salsa, Celia Cruz, heard from nearly every open window. The smoke from a hand-rolled cigar and the sounds of the dominoes hitting the table at Domino Park.Calle Ocho — the main strip, the heart of Miami’s Little Havana — is among the fondest memories of my free-spirited youth.Well, OK, my early youth, from the age of too young to remember how old I was when we moved there, until about 8.