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Military services broadens culinary tastes
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That wise Southern philosopher, Jeff Foxworthy, suggested one’s origins affect how one talks, works, plays and thinks.
I think he’d agree that being a military serviceman or the spouse or child of a serviceperson can have a dramatic effect on one’s culinary tastes.
I grew up in the Marine Corps, so when I answer questions about the source of my accent and eating habits, I name military bases. Then, I’ll explain that my parents were from Thomas County, Ga.
“Oh,” they say.
Some folks then want to know why I, the product of Georgia parents, have such a strong preference for New York-style pizza or pastrami sandwiches from an authentic Jewish deli.
My taste buds developed as a Marine Corps brat, born at Parris Island, S.C. and reared near Albany Marine Base in Georgia, but mostly Camp Lejeune, N.C. I even spent six months in Morocco in West Africa when my daddy was assigned there as an embassy guard.
Many of my daddy’s Marine buddies were from New York and New Jersey. Most were Italian-Americans, though at least one was Jewish. Joe Petri, who became my hunting buddy when I got older, decided to open his own pizzeria when he retired from the Corps. I still can smell the aroma of his pizza dough and taste that gigantic slice of pie dripping with cheese and sauce, smothered with pepperoni, Italian sausage, mushrooms and green peppers.
For years, I thought these were required toppings for a pizza. Still do.
I was awestruck with Mr. Petri’s New York-style pizza. It was not something I’d have expected from him. I mean, I knew him as a guy who told outrageous hunting stories (lies) and wore the finest hunting outfits you could buy from an L.L. Bean catalog, but he couldn’t hit the side of a barn.
For that matter, he couldn’t hit my hunting hat when I threw it in the air for him to blast away at with his beautiful Benelli shotgun. He thought the 12-year-old boy taunting him couldn’t hit anything, either. He tossed his camouflaged, alpine-style hunting hat high in the air and watched me follow it in the sights of my single-barrel 20-guage. As soon as his hat hit the ground, I blew it away. I learned he didn’t have a sense of humor, either.
When it came to pizza, though, Mr. Petri knew what he was doing. Now, the taste of his recipe has become the standard to which I hold all pizza.
In 1967, right outside the gate to the Tarawa Terrance base housing was a Jewish deli. Daddy took me there once and told me I could order a sandwich. I looked at the menu on the wall, and then the smaller menu on the counter. Because I couldn’t find a ham sandwich, I was about to ask the waitress when Daddy asked me about my “problem.” I always had problems as he put it, always asking too many questions.
When I told him I wanted a ham sandwich, he reminded me I was in a Jewish deli.
“Oh,” I said, and then ordered the corned-beef sandwich on his recommendation. Wow! I later discovered pastrami at that deli, as well as some great chicken and matzo-ball soup. By the time I was old enough to drive myself there, that deli had closed. I didn’t find another authentic Jewish deli until I went in the Army, which also made lasting impressions on my taste buds.
My wife and I were ruined for years after coming home from Italy. After we found out what real Italian food was supposed to taste like, it was hard to find real (Northern) Italian pasta here in the United States. Through the Army, I discovered what real Mexican flavor was supposed to be, thanks to a training exercise at Fort Bliss, Texas. While training in Scotland, I understood why the British like their fish and chips so much.
The Army exposed me to real German and oriental cuisine and taught me to at least try things that allowed me to expand my culinary experiences. Not all of it was good, but most of it was great.

Email Murray at rmurray@coastalcourier.com.

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Tomatoes are terrific summertime treats
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tomato
Tomatoes are even good eaten raw, right after picking and a wash. - photo by Stock photo

Every day, twice a day I check my garden to see if I have any “maters” ripe and ready for picking. In less sophisticated parts of the country, this veggie-fruit is called a tomato, but I live in Georgia, so I call them maters.
I don’t even want to think about what Italian or Mexican cuisine would be like without maters, so I’ll just focus on how delicious they are fresh off the vine. I love a fresh sliced, homegrown mater with some fresh sliced, homegrown cukes.
That’s what folks in North Carolina call cucumbers. I lived there long enough to pick up some Tarheel lingo. Cukes are not to be confused with kooks, which can be contagious during political seasons.
Mater and cuke slices deserve a sprinkling of sea salt and cracked black pepper before eating by themselves or as a side dish with any Southern meal. They add character to everything. I especially like mine with fried chicken or pork barbecue.
Sometimes I’ll eat a mater, cuke and Vidalia onion salad with just a drizzle of ranch dressing. Salt and pepper too, of course. I first discovered this salad at K&W Cafeteria, a family restaurant chain based in Greensboro, North Carolina. They left out the Vidalias, though. I first found Vidalias included with maters and cukes on a salad bar in Georgia.
Fresh mater slices are pretty much mandatory on most sandwiches. A summer picnic with grilled hamburgers wouldn’t be the same without a large slice of beefeater mater. In fact, some of us enjoy a plain mater sandwich. Just add a little mayo, salt and pepper.
When I ate mater sandwiches as a kid, I figured we didn’t have any burgers, ham or bologna to put on our sandwiches. I quickly learned to love them and didn’t care if I had anything else to go with the mater slices.
Bacon? Well, that’s different. Bacon and maters were made for each other (with mayo, salt and pepper). You really don’t need lettuce, which has no nutritional value anyway. If you want a healthy BLT (if that’s possible), use spinach leaves in place of lettuce. If you’re really hungry, add a -pound grilled Angus beef patty with cheddar cheese (then throw away any notion of eating healthy). Rest assured a homegrown mater will blend its sweet-acidic flavors with these add-ons.
There are a variety of maters for the backyard gardener. This year I planted heirlooms and Burpee’s Big Boy hybrids as well as some cherry and grape maters. I also planted a yellow variety called Lemon Boy, which have a different but wonderful flavor. According to Prevention.com, red maters are slightly better for you than the yellow ones, mostly due to the extra Vitamin A and C. I like the yellow ones anyway.
I can’t tell the difference between cherry and grape maters, except that one tends to be a bit oblong. I prefer them to plum maters in a salad because plum maters are too big to eat whole. I’m not the only person to ever bite down on a plum mater, sending mater guts streaming across the table. I like roma maters though, which are really plum maters, only bigger. You have to slice them to eat them, which can save you an embarrassing moment.
In ancient times, folks thought maters were poisonous, maybe because the leaves of some varieties are poisonous. According to several online sources, maters originated in Central and South America and were taken into western North America and Europe by Spanish explorers. English explorers who first settled North Carolina’s coast brought with them a fear of maters that was prompted by the poison myth.
According to North Carolina’s barbecue history buff Bob Garner, drinks made with mater juice were consumed from a common drinking vessel at the time, the pewter mug. In those days, pewter mugs contained lead. The acid from the mater juice tended to leach lead from the mugs, which caused revelers to act like kooks (not cukes). This led folks to believe maters were poisonous. It was so strongly believed that eastern North Carolina barbecue sauce developed without maters, just a peppery vinegar.
I do like my maters, but I’m sort of glad they left them out of the eastern North Carolina barbecue sauce I also love. When I make summer visits to Wilbur’s BBQ in Goldsboro, I make sure I get a plate of homegrown, local maters to go with their delicious pork barbecue. The maters add character to their already-perfect barbecue.

Email Murray at rmurray@coastalcourier.com.

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